The Vacation - Part 1 (Hanoi and Halong Bay)

Bergie and I just finished the vacation of our lives (thus far) - 24 days, 2 countries, 7 cities, 12 different modes of transportation, and a ton of great memories. In Vietnam, we visited Hanoi, Halong Bay, Cat Ba Island, Hoi An, and Hue. In Thailand we went to Ko Samui, Bangkok, and Chiang Mai. It was truly amazing. Over the next several blog entries, I'll try to describe the trip.

The trip began on December 22, in Hanoi, Vietnam, where we met up with our Minnesota travel buddies, Clint, Jackie, Juggy, and Becca, to begin our Southeast Asian adventure. Hanoi provided an excellent introduction to the craziness we would encounter on the trip. This town is nuts. The streets are jam packed with cars, pedicabs, and countless mopeds. There are no crosswalks. And there are very few traffic lights. So, to cross the street, you just have to take a deep breath, put yourself in front of oncoming traffic, and slowly move across the road - scary as hell at first, but the system works, the traffic avoids you, and eventually you get across the street.

That first night we crossed the street a few times for fun, grabbed dinner, and went to bed. The Minnesota crew had been traveling for more than 24 hours straight, and they urgently needed some rest. Plus, early the next day we would begin our 3-day adventure in Halong Bay.

We booked a 3-day, 2-night Halong Bay Junk Cruise, Kayaking and Cat-Ba Island adventure through Handspan Adventure Travel (Highly Recommended). A junk is a boat - it sort of looks like a pirate ship, but they are essentially small cruise boats that are used to take people like us around Halong Bay. Ours was called the Aloha Junk, and it was fantastic. The rooms were comfy and the food was great.

Halong Bay's beauty is difficult to describe - I've seen no other place like it. So, I'll include a bunch of pics. Essentially, it is a large bay that has a ton of steep limestone karsts scattered all over the place. It's stunningly beautiful - an absolute must see if you ever visit Vietnam. According to legend, the islands were created by jewels that fell from the mouths of dragons who were defending the bay from potential Chinese invasion. (Take that China). I guess it actually has something to do with shifting tectonic plates, but I like the dragon theory better.

Our Junk trip was great. Day one essentially involved transporting us to the Junk and feeding us a fantastic seafood dinner. On the second day, we went visited a small fishing village, where we all jumped in these tiny row boats and were rowed around the village by some local girls. It was pretty amazing to realize that these families lived in these tiny shacks floating on the water. Apparently, a boat from the village regularly goes to the mainland for supplies, but the vast majority of the villagers spend their entire lives living and working on the water.

After the tour of the fishing village, we went kayaking - a definite highlight of the trip for me. Seeing Halong Bay from the junk was great, but getting in the water and paddling ourselves around was truly amazing.

After Kayaking, it was time to transfer off the Junk to Cat-ba island - the biggest, and only settled island in Halong Bay. We were spending one night in a hotel on the island. We had no idea until we arrived just how nice our hotel was going to be. It was all sorts of fancy - huge rooms, right on the beach, with an amazing view from every room. The girls immediately took advantage of the hotel spa and the guys started drinking. We sort of tied one on that night, as we knew the following night was going to be a bit less luxurious (an overnight train from Hanoi to Danang).

The next day, we decided to rent motorbikes and tour the island. It was funny how different renting an automobile in Vietnam is from the States. At home, they'd want your license, and they'd have you sign some sort of waiver. In Vietnam, they take your money and hand over the keys.

I had trouble immediately. I started my motorbike, put it in gear, and proceeded to drive it into a curb and crash. Juggy, Clint, and Bergie all enjoyed that a little too much. Luckily, I wasn't hurt. I did jack my motorbike up a bit, but we quickly got it fixed, and we were off on our tour. Unfortunately, 10 minutes into our ride, I had another problem - this time I had a flat tire.

Our guidebook had warned us about this sort of thing. It said that we should beware of motorbike scams - that they will rent you a bike that will break down, and then someone will come by out of the blue to "help you," only to completely rip you off. So, when a Vietnamese man came out of nowhere to help me, I was very skeptical. He began motioning me to follow him. He kept pointing at my tire and then pointing at someplace far off in the distance, and he was trying to get me to go with him. I was skeptical, though, because he was directing me to go away from the direction of my hotel - the direction I wanted to go. But, against my better judgment, I followed him. The man guided me through a small town. As I pushed my bike down the street, the villagers would yell something at the man, he'd point at my tire and yell back, and then they'd all nod at me and point in the direction I was heading as if to say, "Yep - just keep going." I felt like they were all in on the scam, but I kept going. Eventually we reached the end of the town, and at the top of a hill, we came to a house with a sign that had an old tire on it and some Vietnamese writing that I can only assume said "Fully Licensed Tire Repair Shop."

This little mishap actually turned out to be pretty cool. While the tire repairman (and about 10 of his friends) attempted to repair my tire, a group of 15 or so school children came up to us and started practicing their English. The girls were especially fond of Juggy - one of them told him she loved him, to which he responded "No you don't." (Why won't you accept love, Juggy?) One of the boys was laying it on pretty thick with Bergie, too. His pick-up line was, "Mother, father, farmer." I'm sure if she wasn't already married, that line just might have worked.

The tire repair was proving quite the challenge, so as we waited, one of the mechanics brought out a papaya for us to eat. That act pretty much confirmed for me that we were not being scammed - that these people were genuinely being helpful. In fact, that's basically what we found throughout Vietnam. The guidebook had us scared that the Vietnamese would try to screw us every chance they got, but we never saw that. The Vietnamese were nothing but friendly and helpful. (Thailand, however - that's another story).

Eventually they fixed my tire. Apparently, I had run over a nail. With everything fixed, we drove back, returned the bikes, hopped on a ferry, and returned to Hanoi so we could begin the next leg of our adventure - Hoi An.

My Husband is Famous!

Tom was part of a photo shoot (with a makeup crew and all) for an advertisement for the university he works for. We didn't really think much of it until we were told his picture was up in the subway stations in Seoul. We made a special trip to Gondeok Station to check it out. Here's what we found:

Better Late than Never

Anyounghasayo, everyone! I know – it’s been forever since our last post, but things got busy and we got lazy and the blog suffered as a result. But let me provide a quick recap of the last 3 months.

Bergie’s Work:

Things at Bergie’s work have been going well. Some of the administrative aspects drive her a bit nuts, but she loves the teaching and loves the students. One night, a bunch of her students invited Bergie and some of her colleagues out for a night on the town. Bergie teaches at a women’s university, so I of course tagged along. It was a blast. About 20 Korean women, Bergie, some of her colleagues, and our new friends Mary and Matthew grabbed some Korean barbecue (Samgyapsal) and had some drinks. We all wore funny hats. (I was a pirate.) And after dinner, we moseyed on over to the Noraybong (Karaoke Room), and sang the night away. Karaoke here works much differently than in the States. Instead of just singing to an entire bar, your group rents a private room, and you only sing to each other. Good times, Good times.

Other than that, Bergie’s job has been smooth sailing, which is good. And she is getting some great experience in her field. She’s busy grading right now, and she essentially only has one week left to teach, and then she’ll be on vacation until February.



Tom’s Work:
My job has been going pretty well, too. I work for a university where I design and deliver fully online classes within their English program. This semester I created a course in presentation Skills and a course in idiom use. It is actually a pretty cool setup. A portion of the course each week always involves some sort of video lecture delivered by yours truly. I stand in front of a green screen while being filmed teaching the course I designed. It’s pretty funny because the final product always has some sort of interesting background behind me. So far, I’ve taught from Time Square, the Golden Gate Bridge, the Statue of Liberty, the Grand Canyon, and from right in front of Big Ben. It’s been sweet.

The actual job itself is pretty straightforward, and I am enjoying the work. Working in Korea, however, also comes with a lot of required extra-curricular activities that just seem like bad policy. Most of the extra-curricular activities include lots of last minute meetings that you must attend and at which you must get drunk. It’s supposed to build camaraderie. And they don’t just want camaraderie between colleagues. They also want it between teachers and students.

Every university has this tradition known as MT. MT stands for Membership Training. But the fact is that Membership Training is actually not training at all. It is simply a big party where teachers and students come together to eat, drink, and sleep on the floor together - Korean Style. (Sounds like a bad idea, right?)

My MT was especially memorable because one of my colleagues, this Canadian guy, got very, very drunk and decided to start a fight with one of the students. Because I’m an old fuddy duddy, I was already asleep, but I woke up because I heard yelling, and when I stepped out to see what was happening, I found a bunch of students trying to pull my colleague and another student off of each other. I guess no punches actually got thrown, but it was pretty nuts. Turns out my colleague started it. He had decided that something the student had done was disrespectful to someone of his stature (a professor), so he told him to fuck off. The student didn’t take too kindly to that, so he told him to shove it up his ass. And that was all it took for them to want to kill each other.

The next day, after my colleague had sobered up, he asked me, “So, was I as much of a dick last night as everyone says I was?” To which I replied, “Yes. Yes you were.”

The funny thing is that there weren’t really any ramifications for what he did. Everyone just chalked it up to too much booze. Which made me ask again, “Is getting drunk with your students really a good policy?” My Korean colleagues just said that the benefits outweigh the negatives, so it looks like I’ll be back at MT next semester. I can’t wait, because I’m pretty sure that Canadian guy did not learn any lessons, so who knows what the next MT will be like?

Bergie Turns 30

She was dreading it, but her 30th birthday arrived on October 5. We had a good time. We went to dinner at this fancy little French place. It was nice to have a meal that did not include Kimchi. After dinner, we went to our favorite local bar (called the Library) where a party of Bergie’s colleagues and friends were waiting. It was supposed to be a surprise party, but because surprising Bergie is next to impossible, she knew it was coming. It was fun anyway. And for a 30 year old, she’s still effing hot.

Hudak Visits

We had our first visitor. Shannon Hudak, my long lost cousin, dropped in on us for a week. It was great to have her. Shannon and Bergie took in the DMZ. We all checked out a cool palace. We sat in a pool where little fish eat the dead skin off your body (freaky). We visited the sea of Japan, and we ate some real crappy sushi. Actually, we ate a lot of different Korean food, and it turns out that Hudak is not really a fan of Korean. I’ll admit – there is a reason why Korean is not among the world’s most popular cuisines. We also walked – a lot! We took Hudak up and down and all over this crazy town. By the end of every day, we all collapsed from exhaustion.

Unfortunately for Hudak, we’ve since stumbled upon all these cool spots in Seoul. And every time that happens we say, “Why didn’t we take Shannon HERE?” Sorry Hudak! It was great to have you anyways. And everyone else is welcome to visit, too.

X-mas in The Shit (AKA Vietnam)

We’ve locked in our holiday plans, and we couldn’t be more excited. Bergie and I are meeting our friends Juggy, Becca, Clint, and Jackie in Hanoi, Vietnam on December 21. From there, we are going on a Junk cruise (Junk is a type of boat) in the Halong Bay, then we are spending a few days touring around Hoi An, and another couple of days in Hue. After that, we’re hopping on a plane to Ko Samui to spend New Years on the beach in the Gulf of Thailand. We’re going to eat great food. We’re going to see amazing sites. And we’re going to get brand new suits tailor made for next to nothing. It is going to be AWESOME!!!

That’s basically the latest with us. We miss everyone like crazy, and we’ll try to do a better job of updating things more regularly. I have some congrats to send out:

• Meggy and Jeremy – Congrats on Theo! He’s adorable!
• Kev and V – Congrats on Linnaea! She’s wicked cute.
• Alexi and Steph – Happy 21st! When we get home, I'll let you take me out for a beer.

Hugs to all,
The Godfreys

P.S. - Check out our photos by clicking the pics links on the right. We've got a ton of new ones.

Gambe!

Before coming to Korea, I read in my travel book that drinking alcohol with your co-workers is a very important part of the business culture here in Korea. The book didn't really describe it properly. It is not just your typical happy hour and go home sort of a deal. These people are all out to get drunk - very, very drunk. And they are also out to get everyone else drunk. Needless to say, when I found myself in the middle of just such an occasion, I fit right in.

The semester at my new job just kicked off, so the President of our company wanted to celebrate with all the new faculty members so he could properly welcome us to the school. So I joined 7 other new faculty members along with some of the more seasoned professors, and we went to this Korean barbecue place. I was pretty stoked about that, because I love Korean barbecue - the tables have big grills in the middle, and they essentially bring you a plate of raw meet that you cook yourself - very fun, and very delicious. Anyway, when I sat down (on the floor), I immediately knew I was in for a bit of trouble, because every place setting had two glasses - a beer glass, and a shot glass. You all know I love my beer, but shots? Not so much.

We were all sitting around just chatting when someone ran upstairs to warn us that the President was coming. So, we all stood up to greet him properly. The president came in and greeted every person in the room. We all waited for him to then sit, then we could all sit. Once he got there, the drinking began. It started with some Maekju, which is Korean for beer. Beer here is very light - like Miller. Everyone's glass was filled with beer, the President made a toast, we all yelled "A-hi-ya" or something like that, and the dinner had begun. Quickly after the beer, the waitresses began bringing in the soju. Soju is a rice wine, and it is essentially the national drink of Korea. It tastes a bit like vodka, but it isn't quite as strong. I don't particularly care for the stuff, but somehow I find it very difficult to say no to these people.

In Korea, they are very formal about how they drink. One is never supposed to fill his own glass. If you see your neighbor's glass is empty, you should offer to fill it for him or her. This approach pretty much makes the whole event about making sure your buddies are constantly drinking. The funniest part about it is that everyone is so into it. It seemed like they all wanted to just get obliterated, and they wanted to take me along with them.

The President of the company was especially interested in making sure I was taken care of. Twice in the evening, he offered me his shot glass. At first, I wasn't sure what to do about it. I thought he was asking me to fill it up for him, but it turned out that he was asking me to take his glass and drink from it - a gesture of friendship. So I took his empty shot glass, he filled it up with soju, I shot it, and then I handed it back to him and filled it back up for him. Then he shot his. And everyone cheered.

At another point in the evening, they decided it was time to do beer bombs. Typically in Korea, a beer bomb is a glass of beer with a shot of soju in it. That was too low class for us, though, so instead they bought a bottle of 17 year old single malt scotch, and mixed that with the beers. Kind of a shame that they'd do that to scotch, but who am I to judge? Again, the President was especially interested in promoting my alcoholism. So he had them mix me up a special one, and he handed it to me. Before I drank it, he said "We have rule! You must drink! One breath! If no drink in one breath, you total failure." I know a challenge when I hear it. I slammed my beer/whiskey, and they all proclaimed me a true Korean.

I was really starting to like this President. He seemed like such a good guy. Then, this guy who was sitting next to me leaned over, pointed to the President and said to me, "He is my boss. I don't like him." He thought he was whispering, but everyone heard him and busted up laughing. One of the many dangers of soju, I guess.

So the dinner went on like this. Just when I thought things were winding down, the waitresses would bring more food and more booze. We ate and drank until about 9:30. It seemed like things were wrapping up. Everyone stood up and started making their way to the exit. I figured the evening was over. I was wrong. The drunk who publicly announced his dislike for his boss grabbed my hand and started pulling me. "Round 2!" he said. "Round 2!" After all the drinking we had done for dinner, it was more like round 15, but who's counting, really?

In round 2, everyone but the president moved to a new bar where we sat and had beers. I guess that's normal for round 2. This is the round where people can complain about work. But mostly people were just having fun. Several were getting up and making toasts. We'd all yell, "Gambe!" and throw back our drinks. I even gave a toast. That went over quite well. At the end, this one woman says, "I'm so impressed. You speak English so well." And then she just busted up laughing at herself.

We stayed there for about another hour. They tried to talk me into joining them for round 3, but I just couldn't do it. I was already completely blitzed. I had mixed beer, whiskey, and soju - i knew if I had much more, it was not going to be a pretty seen. So I backed out. I wasn't the only one, though. It looked like only the hardest of the hard core boozers made it to round 3.

All in all, it was a very cool experience. I felt a little wrecked the morning after, but I recovered soon enough. I made some new friends out of the deal. And the best part - it was all on the company dime. I think I could get used to this.

That's all for now. We miss you all!

Gambe!

Godfrey

Feelin' oh so clean

Even before arriving in Korea, I had heard about the bathhouses. In the past, and perhaps even today, many homes didn't have baths so people really used the bathhouse as a place to wash. In any case, going to the bathhouse is very much a part of Korean culture and, according to Lonely Planets, there are still over 2000 bathhouses in Seoul alone. Even the basic bathhouses have hot and cold tubs, a sauna, and offer massages and "scrub down" treatments. So, when we found our apartment I was excited to learn that Mrs. Ko, our landlady, also owned the bathhouse on the first floor of our building.

After being here for a couple of weeks, I decided that I needed to immerse myself into this Korean tradition and check out the bathhouse for myself. I went downstairs hoping Mrs. Ko would be there to help me out but she happened to be away so Mr. Ko gently pushed me into the women's side. I was a bit nervous since I had read that there were certain "rules" and an order in which things should be done.

After a quick glance around, I quickly determined that I needed to strip, seat myself down on one of the stools, and begin to wash myself. The stools were tiny and each one faced a mirror and a hand held shower hose, a sort of "personal" washing space so to speak. Women of all ages, shapes, and sizes were washing and scrubbing while chatting and laughing. As I was rinsing, Mrs. Ko showed up - yes my landlady has seen me in the buff - and asked me if I wanted a "scrub scrub". Of course I wasn't going to miss out on the best part of the bathhouse so I nodded in agreement. She told me that I should wait my turn in the hot tub to get my skin soft.

Soon enough, I was called over to the massage table and Mrs. Ko came over to talk to the "scrub scrub" lady. I assume she was telling her that it was my first time and that she should be nice to me but really, who knows. My lack of Korean language skills leaves me making up conversations quite often. And sometimes, it's perhaps better that way! Anyways, the "scrub scrub" began when the lady, who was in her undies by the way, put on her scrubbing mitts and went to town. The pile of dead skin (i.e. my summer tan) was growing high as I was flipped around on the table and scrubbed all over, I mean all over! (Shannon, are you ready for this?) The first round of scrubbing was soap free but then I had two more rounds with different soaps and then was rubbed down with lotion and oils. Along the way, I also got a short head and face massage. 45 minutes and $15 later, I felt like a whole new person. I was so clean, I squeaked, seriously. And my skin was incredibly soft. After feeling a bit grimy from sweating so much and walking around in the pollution of a big city, I felt so great!

I must admit that at first the whole experience was a bit strange and awkward. But during my "scrub scrub" I looked over and the woman next to me was getting the same treatment. I then realized that to everyone else this was all very normal and I decided that things are only as weird as you let them be. When in Rome ....

Mrs. Ko came back to check on me and see how I liked the scrub. She was so happy when I said that I would come back again. And while I'll definitely go back to her quaint little no-frills place, I'm really looking forward to going to one of the big spas that have co-ed (not co-ed naked) indoor/outdoor pools of all temperatures and stuff. Some even have fish that come and eat the dead skin cells which I hear this is gaining popularity in the US too. We'll keep you posted on that and the men's side of Mrs. Ko's bath house.

Hugs to you all,
- Bergie

Up and Down Bukansan's Juan-Bong Peak

If you haven't heard, Seoul is full of people - over 10 million they say. And you feel that 10 million every day. From the hoards of people crammed into the subway during rush hour (I had to suck in my gut yesterday just to get on), to the dodging of mopeds while you walk on the sidewalks, to just the constant hum of traffic at all hours of the day - this place is bustling. We knew that was going to be the case - we read about it, but the reality of it is something different. So, after our first 3 weeks, we thought we'd do something to "get away" from it all.

Back home, hiking is always a good way to escape, so we read about a cool national park that isn't too far away and we thought we'd go check it out. We figured a nice hike out in the woods would be the perfect way to escape and relax. Little did we know that thousands of other people had the exact same plans. I'm quickly realizing that escaping in Korea is going to require a little more than simply taking an hour train ride to a national park. As we took the train out to the park, more and more hikers boarded the train. I knew they were hikers because these people were all outfitted from head to toe in some serious hiking gear. I was wearing a sporty shirt and some khaki shorts, and I sort of laughed at these Koreans assuming that they we a little over-dressed. I quickly learned, however, that it was I who was not fully prepared for the hike.

When we finally reached our stop, all us hikers unloaded from the train and started making our way to the entrance of the park. The entrance to the park is about a half-mile from the train station, and the road there is lined with an endless supply restaurants, vendors, and hiking supply stores. The picture on the left is a stand selling chicken feet - just what one needs on a hike. There were lots of other options as well - including some sort of roasted larvae we keep seeing all over the place. It smells a little off, and I've never actually seen anyone buy or eat them, but it is an option.

Finally the hike began. It started of well enough. It was a bit uphill, but the scenery was cool. We were walking alongside a stream for a while. It was nice to be in the woods. And as we ascended, the air started to cool as well. (It has been hot as all hell here lately.) After walking for about a half an hour, we hit a fork in the path. One led to the top of Juan-bong peak. The other somewhere else. Bergie, being Bergie, wanted to take the longer route, so Juan-bong it was. At that point, the hike changed considerably. It went from being a pretty decent uphill, to pretty much straight up for 2 miles. I might be exaggerating just a little, but it was seriously steep. But there were a couple decent rest stops on our way up. The first was this Buddhist Temple. I've included a couple pics from there. There was actually a service going on at the temple, and it seemed as if a lot of people had gone on this hike specifically to go to the service - makes all my complaining about going to church seem pretty weak considering all I had to do was pile in the car and drive 10 minutes. These people had to scale a mountain to get to church. Of course, they looked as bored at church as the rest of us do, so go figure. I digress.



The next stop was simply named the Rock. It was this big exposed section of limestone on which people were sitting. At this point, I was getting a bit exhausted. Getting to the rock was a very steady climb, and I had already sweat so much that my clothes were completely drenched. To the right is a picture of me trying to rest. Do I look tired? Bergie, my marathon running wife, is bouncing around ready to run up to the top of the mountain, and I'm thinking, "You go on ahead. I'm just going to catch my breath for an hour or so."

Well, that didn't really work out. So we started out again. Next official stop - Juan-Bong Peak. I thought the climb up to the Rock was difficult, but that had nothing on the rest of the ascent. At many points, we really felt like were doing more climbing than hiking. And when you finally reach the very last portion, you essentially have to pull yourself up to the top using this metal railing they have installed. Without that, it'd be too steep and slippery to climb without equipment.

We finally made it to the top. And while the trip up completely wore me out, it was definitely worth it. The view from up there was amazing. This mountain is actually still inside Seoul. So when you reach the top, you can see the entire enormous city sprawled out below. And the view of the rest of the park is also quite amazing.

Of course, that still left getting back down. That also proved a challenge. Luckily in Korea, if you just stand around looking confused for long enough, someone will eventually offer to help you. And that's what happened to us. A nice Korean man named Kwon offered to be our guide back down. Well, actually, he offered to let us join him on his hike, which meant we didn't go directly back down. At this point, we had met this nice British couple named David and Julia - they were equally perplexed about getting down, so we all decided to follow Kwon together. Kwon took us up and down and all around that mountain. There were spots where we had to go single-file down a steep section of rock, lowering ourselves down backwards while gripping a rope or a metal railing. There were more steep climbs and some serious rugged terrain.

Three hours later, (after six hours in total) we finally made it to the end. I was absolutely wrecked, which is pretty embarrassing considering that the whole time we were being passed up by old ladies and old men. The worst part is that I had sweat so much that it looked as if I had been swimming in my clothes. One Korean woman who was walking alongside us for a bit thought that was the funniest thing she had ever seen (Koreans don't tend to sweat so much). She kept pointing at me, saying something to her friends, and cracking up laughing. I can only assume she was saying "Look at the sweaty American. He's so sweaty. Ha. Ha. Ha." It was funny at first, but she kept talking about it for like 15 minutes. I kept thinking, "Go away, you extremely fit and healthy old lady."

So that was our trip. It was a pretty amazing hike. I'm glad we did it. I'll even probably try to do it again someday. And I know that Bergie is ready to do it again. Maybe, if you come visit, we'll take one of you.

Hugs to all,
The Godfreys

A place to call home

We've been in our apartment now for about two and a half weeks and it's really starting to feel like home. We live on the fourth floor - no elevator - of a pretty nice apartment building. We've heard that the other tenants are mostly military or military contractors though, we don't see too many people around. We are upstairs from a bath house/sauna, which I plan to check out soon. I'll report about that adventure. Here are some pictures of our little pad - keep in mind the place came furnished so the teal leather couches, while pretty cool, were not our choice.

The kitchen is working out ok. It's not nearly as well equipped as we've grown accustomed to. But, we're slowly gathering some necessities. We love that we have a washer/dryer combo so don't have to do 4 flights of stairs each time we need to do laundry.

Our bedroom has a nice view of our neighborhood, or "dong" as they say in Korean. And now that the insane heat seems to have gone we can keep the doors and windows open and we get a nice breeze throughout the place.

The neighborhood is really great. We've got everything we need within a 10 minute walk. We've got a little outdoor market in the back alley, a fish stand, a flower shop, a pharmacy, many Korean restaurants, several foreign restaurants (spanish, mexican, thai, japanese, italian, chinese, french and more), bakeries, a tailor, a barber shop and so much more. It's really great and it's a fun to see the mix of foreigners who also live nearby. And for as complicated as adjusting to a new life in a country where you don't speak the language can be, in someways it's a lot simpler.